Word
comes this week that the French are no longer drinking wine. Mon Dieu! What
is the world coming to? Apparently
this decline has been going on for years. Those delicious bottles of Cabernet
Sauvignon or Bordeaux are disappearing from their dinner tables. In 1980 over
50% of French adults consumed the crushed grape daily - now it's just 17%. By
my reckoning that's eight out of ten of our Gallic brethren don't imbibe.
Now,
I love the stuff. Rarely seen without it, but there's more.
Denis
Saverot, editor of La Revue des Vins de France magazine, says it's the working
class who made it popular in the first place. He blames the war.
"Basically
the soldiers went over the top pickled on pinard, the strong, low-quality wine
which was supplied in bulk. Up until then the Normans, the Bretons, the people
of Picardy and the north, they had never touched wine. But they learned in the
trenches. By the 1950s there were drinking outlets, cafes and bars, everywhere.
Tiny villages would have five or six."
Sounds
fine to me. So, where did it all go wrong? Denis continues.
"It is
our bourgeois, technocratic elite with their campaigns against drink-driving
and alcoholism, lumping wine in with every other type of alcohol, even though
it should be regarded as totally different," he says.
"Recently
I heard one senior health official saying that wine causes cancer 'from the
very first glass'. That coming from a Frenchman. Our elites prefer to keep the
country on chemical anti-depressants and wean us off wine. In the 1960s, we
were drinking 160 litres each a year and weren't taking any pills. Today we
consume 80 million packets of anti-depressants, and wine sales are collapsing."
He ends.
"The village bar has gone, replaced by a pharmacy."
Denis
has got a point worth us Anglais taking on board. Traditionally we use beer and
pubs in the same way - to socialise. We always have. Got a problem? Have a beer
and a chuckle with friends. That's the difference between a round of drinks and
anti-depressants. Communal pill popping never solved anything. We later added
wine, French originally and now universally available, to our hospitality. Are
we also to go the way of those across the Mer?
Oxford-based
French writer Theodore Zeldin has the last word, and this might sound familiar.
"A
business-style culture has made huge inroads into France - the bane of all
those who prefer to take the time to savour things. Companionship has been
replaced by networking. Business means busy-ness. The old French art de vivre
is still there. It's an ideal. Of course times have changed, but it still
survives. We have a duty to entertain, to converse. And in France - thanks to
our education system - we still have that ability to converse in a general,
universalist way that has been lost elsewhere. "
"That
is the art de vivre. It is about taking your time. And wine is part of it,
because with wine you have to take your time. After
all, that is one of the great things about wine. You can't swig it."
Order me a
glass of Bordeaux immediately - and send my psychiatrist packing.











